Kicking and Screaming - How we went 2600 Kms, without going crazy (or did we?)
It started with "Ladakh chalte hain"
Frankly speaking, I was highly skeptical of our ability to do this road trip. Looking back, I'm still astounded that we were able to do this. But, with each others' support and our ability to problem solve and manage expectations, Theka and I were able to pull it off. The others were just along for the ride.
It was like having a trip with 6 kids, i felt like a school teacher to a menagerie of delinquents. Some excerpts from what i said "No, we cannot stop every 5 mins for photos" "How can you be hungry already, we just ATE" "what do you mean we should look for a bathroom?"
Obviously, this is an exaggeration of what transpired, but I will not let the truth stand in the way of a good story - facts be damned. I have seen that any endeavour of such a size has multiple phases, and i will try to describe how we felt them below.
What can i say, I'm a science student and we love our processes.
1. Initial excitement (Trip Glow): This is the best phase, we decide to go on a trip and everything is great. Its gonna be awesome, this will be awesome, everything is awesome.
2. Real Life (Second thoughts): Now that everyone says yes to the trip, real life intervenes. Family will invariably decide to visit in that time frame or a family commitment will loom large. Work deadlines creep closer. You are in the middle of an important project and can't bring up such a long leave with your manager. Second thoughts invade, "yaar ye to mushkil lag raha hai" "ye bahut important hai, can't miss it" "International travel aagaya"
3. Testing the waters to reschedule (Aage kardein date, kaafi pressure hai): This usually happens when real life has been pounding away at you for a couple of weeks and you still haven't got your leaves approved (or spoken to your manager about it). Side conversations start creeping faster than a grapevine, "bhai wo nahi aayega, tu dekh liyo".
4. Storming (Gaali Galoch bhara video call): Such a call happens and then the trip has 2 fates, either motivation manifests into action or you fight with each other and go on a ladaai break for 4-5 months. The trip's fate depends on your friends prioritising this trip over stuff like, money, comfort, and work.
5. Commitment (Bhai ab to chal rahein hain): This is the surge of motivation that follows a successful storming where money is committed and we move with a determination hitherto thought impossible. Updates are flying left, right, and center.
6. The work (by god chutti ke liye itna kaam karna padta hai): This step has 2 constituents - office work and trip work, because we did the trip you can assume that we managed the work bit i.e. holiday approval, pending work completion (or delegation if you have a team) and manager being managed. The trip in itself has lots of work - itinerary, logistics, bookings and the associated efforts with respect to this.
7. More Storming (Koi interested nahi hai kuch plan karne mein): Calls are arranged, notes discussed, sights finalised and consistent reconfirmation of information is needed.
8. Shopping (mere paas kapde nahi hain): This was more me. My sweet always complains before a trip, that she has nothing to wear, the evidence stored in her cupboard says otherwise.
Now that I have spoken about what happened pre-trip, time sounds right to actually get to the trip. We 8, band of couples with our appropriate contractions - Arinee, Deepika, Krian and Prevar - decided to depart on the 8th of July (late evening) with our first pitstop in Chandigarh. Things got complicated when Aayush and Ayushi celebrated the arrival of their second kid, Aashvi, and we just had to meet that bundle of joy before leaving. So, consequently, our departure time got extended and we left 2 hours later than originally planned.
A warm welcome to Ayushi Jr. 2, isko scientist banayenge - Biotech dilaayenge, bahut scope hoga tab bhi.
Chapter 1 - Delhi to Leh
Day 0 or Departure:
We were late to depart and the double whammy was the car - we wanted an XUV, we got an Innova, we wanted no speed limit, we got an 80 Km/Hr limiter, Though personally speaking I was really happy with this, simply because it irritated the hell out of Theka. Also, another theme at the time of departure was that Deepu was on a solo trek and was supposed to rendezvous with us in Manali. This was the original plan but circumstances were dynamic and we had no communication with Deepu, the only news that was coming in was through his hiking company.
So, finally, we left and made it to Chandigarh 6 hours later - reason , the Innova's Fastag didn't work (the fuck) and we needed to find a bathroom (it became a theme for the entire trip). So at 4 am in the morning, standing before some god forsaken toll booth in the middle of nowhere, we struggled with getting a fastag for the vehicle. Troubles didn't end there, we needed to pay road tax on the vehicles as well, that was another story but with no complications.
Oh, by the way the slogan on the trip was "Babe, don't be Chui-Mui, be rough and tough" so we are going to talk about rough and tough.
We had planned on sleeping, but that pretty much went down the drain with our first failed pitstop and we ended up on a direct run to Manali on no sleep. Whether this was a good decision or not we could only know in hindsight. With this we were well and truly onto day 1 of our trip.
Day 1 or on the way to Manali:
We were still on the road enroute Manali and unbeknownst to us, Kanika had somehow convinced Theka to let her drive the Innova - though she drove well - her impatience and inexperience showed sometimes (i would get to know much later that despite her confidence - she only had a learners permit). Couple of close shaves later (when i thought Theka was driving) i pulled up along the Innova to chide Theka at his recklessness, only to see this girl driving.
We still hadn't been able to get in touch with Deepu, obviously because he was out of network coverage, but that did not stop Kanika from imagining the worst possible scenarios and the other girls didn't help much by constantly amplifying her worries (facts be damned :p). Under this cloud of worry we made our way up to Manali and to our, almost, decadent accommodation. Caught a bit of sleep to be ready for the next day and was woken up to the excitement of Deepu returning from his trek and joining us. (Spoiler: He was hale and hearty and thoroughly sunburnt, He was also in the highest of spirits, lighter than i've seen him in years). Nothing much of note happened apart from the incessant talk of reels and photographs and everything a man can imagine that can ruin a trip (facts be damned :p).
Day 2: Manali to Sarchu
This will go down as our toughest day on the trip, or rather the day was fine it was the night that killed us (i mean figuratively speaking, obviously i speak of our spirit and not our bodies). This day was the highlight of the entire trip, we were going to cover the Manali-Leh highway experiencing the best sights a person can see in their lifetime. A place which is the polar opposite of the artificial environment that we live in everyday. This is nature at its purest and most untouched. A scorched, barren hinterland, cold and unforgiving and in this environment we attempted one of the most epic human endeavours possible. Today was the day that the city would evaporate from our consciousness.
All that was promised was delivered and it turned to be Deepu's best moment of the trip.
Crossing Atal Tunnel - check, getting the first taste of the beauty to come - check, the lunch at Keylong - check, moving through Manali Solang, Lahaul Spiti and then onto the Zanskar valley - check. The further we went the wilder it became.
Here's the thing about moving with such speed through such heights. The pressure equalisation of your body goes to shit and it gets really cold, really fast. AMS is a real threat always and at these heights, we were no different. Though the boys were less affected, it took a toll on our baandri's. It started with Kriti (and this is hearsay), where she was fine one moment and the next her head flopped leading to frantic attempts at waking/cheering her up by Singing Dil Chahta hai. The folks in the other car were oblivious to this, busy in congratulating each other on crossing Baralachala and taking good pics to boot. So, in Sarchu we arrived with 1 casualty in our ranks, the altitude making a simple walk feel like a run and the AMS wreaking havoc. Prerna fell victim soon after, Kanika also feeling some effects. Morale couldn't have been lower and the icing on the cake was the cold setting in harder than before. Here we slept, for an early morning departure to Leh.
Day 3: Sarchu to Leh (Pranee's best moments)
We awoke to a glorious morning and a terrible saduu temper (yours truly, having spent little time sleeping and most time comforting my sweet). Auri didn't know then, but he had already experienced the most enjoyable moment of his trip. In the morning our campsite was beautiful, our worries of last night evaporating in the magnificent sunshine. It was truly a reset of our life, emptying our glass and making room for us to drink in this experience. Then we started.
Driving up the ghata loops to Nakeela and lachungla - check (Auri's favourite moment), Tearing through the More plains - check (my favourite place), Tanglangla - check
The day was spent in a beautiful song, stopping briefly along the way on various spots each more beautiful than the last. The passes, the plains, the scenery. A magnificence only experienced up close and personal. So here is my recommendation, this drive is one the best drives you will ever do. Also, this is THE best bike ride you will ever do.
Side note, my raging AMS aside we were able to reach Leh without much incident and after a moment of being swindled (and entries into suspense account) we settled into our accommodation at Leh.
Day 4: Leh (Acclimatization)
This day was all about covering Leh and acclimatizing before heading onto more challenging routes. Deepankar presented a small desire, that he wanted to drive a bike while in Leh, the desire was met with universal approval, that our travels within Leh should be on 2 wheelers at least. But, we had no idea how this innocent desire would turn incendiary, burning away our good moods (coming to another of my super saduu moments).
2 wheelers were procured, the bandar's and their baandri's dolled up, Arinee were doing pranee's unavoidable call (this girl suffers from a raging case of FOMOW). What we didn't count on was the heat - man was Leh hot. But, this was Kriti's favourite moment.
False start, going the wrong way on a one-way - check, Theka Kriti both having phone trouble - check, Shanti Stupa - check, getting to the wrong leh palace - check, Me and deepu getting to the right Leh palace and everyone else getting lost - check, flaming shouting match in the middle of the street - check, visiting Leh palace in a foul mood check, Theka's favourite moment - check, Kriti gets physically injured - check, visiting Prateek (prerna's bro) - check (he's the Manager/Barista at Metta Cafe), Metta Cafe - you beauty.
The cars that we had brought were rentals and the taxi unions of Ladakh are really militant about rental vehicles being driven around for sight seeing (some of it is protectionism and some of it is common sense because these roads are really really tough, one mistake could be your last). Ran around to book cabs of the next leg, got 2 ex army men. Coming back to find that we have ordered an absurd amount of food (and wasted a lot of it) making Auri Da crazy mad. We promised to keep a better check on our own wastage and in hindsight were much more successful.
Chapter 2: The beauty of Ladakh
Day 5: On to Nubra Valley (Theka's favourite place and Kanika's 1/2 best moment). We started not very bright and early the next day, it's hard to muster troops who are used to an easier pace. Both our guides/drivers were on time, courteous and caring. We left our vehicles at Snow Lion resort, Prateek's friend runs the place and she was gracious enough to let us park our cars there.
At this point, we had already covered almost 1/3rd of our trip, seen some beautiful sights, flushed the city out of our system and were in the flow. Departing Leh, we ascended the mighty Khardung La, one of the highest motorable roads in the world (Umling La is the highest i believe). I had a really bad habit of comparing my old trip with this new one. Last time when i had ascended, the cold was such that bringing your hand out of your glove for more than a minute could give you hypothermia. This time, it was a light jacket and t shirt weather (so much so, that i saw a young lady in short shorts and hotel slippers). In my previous experience, there were just 2 families crazy enough to be travelling at the same time. This time, we had more than 500 people on the pass. I must commend Airtel here, 4G with full bars at 18k feet is no mean feat (obviously powered by Ericsson).
Fighting to get our photo taken - check, pushing people - check, girls going crazy taking photos - check, guys getting crazy with this - check, AriDa playing both sides - check, Kanika and Kriti's best moment - check, more saduu moments for me - check. Deepu getting super irritated check.
We left Khardung La after a 45 minute stop and moved towards Nubra Valley, our first stop the Diskit Monastery. The drive was amazing, but BRO is doing a lot of work on this stretch so there are some obstacles that need to be negotiated. We reached the monastery without much incident and were greeted by a larger than life Buddha statue. In the middle of nowhere we found an island of spirituality. Here, i compared again.
On my last trip, we had scaled the monastery at 7 in the morning to a deserted spiritual moment. This time it was like any other crowded camera crazy monument. People were not remotely interested in living the moment, but more absorbed in documenting it. This has reached epidemic proportions, i don't like this new culture, but sadly it is here to stay and will be the new normal (Deepu shares this with me, so am not totally crazy, or both of us are).
We then continued to the cold desert sand dunes of Hunder village, to the handsomest camels of them all. To a Mela of epic proportions. I get it, not all people are the sit and wonder kind. They need stimulation, something to do, something to chase, this demand is then completed by supply. Families, bachelor boys, girl gangs, oldies. They need this Mela and that is exactly what they got. On my last trip we barely had 50 people in the entire area. This time, atleast a 1000. We still managed to find a beautiful spot, engaged the Baandri's in a song and dance routine. Sent Deepu on his own quest across a river and up a hill. Something for everyone.
Getting stuck in a massive traffic jam - check, the audacity of that asshole buying ice-cream - check, Glamping in one of the most beautiful properties I have seen - check, sitting under a full moon peeking behind a cloud cover - check, a rain of silver upon the grey sand - check. Taking a pause from our incessant running - check.
Day 6: Pangong here we come. (Deepankar, Praneeta, Prerna, Kanika's favourite place - bole to almost sabka moment)
We were on a tight schedule, with the Nubra-Pangong Tso route getting flooded after a certain time in the morning, so speed and timely departure was of the essence. We were up and ready to leave on time, the muster getting significantly better. There was a photo session happening early in the morning in anticipation of our leaving. The incessant photo taking got to Theka, leading him to issue a dire warning "Agar 5 minute ke andar sab gaadi mein nahi chadhe, to main har aadhe ghante mein photo kheenchne ke liye gaadi rukwaoonga, dekh lena" to which we responded by promptly boarding our cabs in the next 1 min.
While leaving Leh, I insisted on random seating whenever we started from a break. This amused our drivers a lot, but i just wanted to sit with everyone and not just the same 3 people all the time. My sweet was really irritated by this (Mission accomplished :p).
We travelled and saw beautiful landscapes and vistas, rivers pristine and muddy, roads beautiful and destroyed. But, mostly without incident we reached our destination. Welcome to Pangong Tso, the place that was brought into national consciousness by 3 Idiots (and Pangong is still a reminder of that movie).
Moving through the valley towards Pangong - Check, The stunning blue/green/grey water nestled in the Himalayas lighting us up - Check, the walk towards Pangong - deepu's most enjoyable moment - Check, Massive - Costumed - reeled - drains your Icloud/Google/Phone memory level photoshoot - Check, 3 Idiots style Dulhan costumed and scooter riding photos - Check, Ears/head/nose hurting cold - Check, Settling in for the night - Check, Theka and Deepu Shamelessly cheating - Check, Pranee upending the sequence board in a Flaming streak of anger - Check, Family Next door evacuating early in the morning due to their daughter having AMS - Check.
Day 7: Back to Leh
Waking up to the best breakfast for Theka, we were pleasantly surprised by its quality. Our Ladakh t-shirts on our backs (courtesy my sweet and Arinee) we were on our way back to Leh. Our Ladakh adventure almost at an end, the mighty Chang La in our way and the skies closing in on us in the most ominous fashion. So we climbed, through spurts of rain and falling temperatures, moving towards my sweets favourite moment. We reached Chang La and were greeted by snowfall, this was something that didn't change from my last trip, although the quantity of snow this time was a tad more manageable and we left soon thereafter only to be met by our first serious traffic jam.
Bidding goodbye to pangong with our best managed photoshoot - Check; Stuck in traffic while descending - Check; The Dalai Lama being welcomed throughout Leh - Check; My sweet going sour because we missed the most awesome monastery in Leh - Check; Reaching Snow lion and then onwards on foot to shop and eat - Check; local walking and getting lost with my sweet and Deepankar - Check; Reaching the "right" wrong restaurant - Check; walking and shopping - Check; last night in Leh, reminiscence and then lets go.
Chapter 3: Homeward Bound - The dash through Kashmir
Day 8: The touristy day - (Prerna's favourite day)
This was the easiest day of the trip, my sweet had ensured we don't travel much and we don't miss much.
The main touristy sites i have mentioned below but 2 moments that really stand out. The detour to Alchi monastery, this is a hidden gem and if it is not on your visit list, then it should be. The Best part about the monastery is that there are no phones allowed, talking is usually in hushed tones and the architecture is like a moment frozen in time. Mud, brick and wood, housing spectacular statues and an overwhelming feeling of spirituality. I felt still, the positivity of the universe flowing into me and re-energising me. This was the experience that a few of us were looking for, we got it late but we got it all the same. "Bhagwaan ke ghar der hai, andher nahi"
Alchi Kitchen is another story altogether, it is a fantastic joint, no question about it. Hands down the best meal of the entire trip by a margin and half. The lady who runs the kitchen employs an all female work staff and is known for adapting ladakhi cuisine to suit north-indian taste buds. The dumplings, Pulao and Khambir sandwiches are to die for. I literally saw my fully fed friends ordering and consuming more than their capacity. The khambir sandwich is something i cannot recommend highly enough. Flying through scenes of otherworldy topography, through the best roads that can be built we reached Kargil and we had a night before us.
Kargil war memorial with an over - enthusiastic presenter - Check; Pathar Sahib - Check; Magnetic Hill (such a damp squib) - Check; Muddy Sangam - Check; Alchi Monastery and Alchi Kitchen - Check; Fotu La - Check; Namik La - Check; Moonland - Check; National pride photoshoot - check; Running into the same people on every pass - Check; Pulling into Kargil at a brilliant hotel - Check; Kriti's favourite moment and my favourite meal - Check.
Day 9: The Last Pass - Magnificent Kashmir
Sadly, the trip was almost at an end here, our journey today would take us away from our heaven and firmly into that heaven which is tainted. We were about to ascend and descend into the valley.
Gar firdaus bar-rue zamin ast, hami asto, hamin asto, hamin ast.
The night before was a mixed bag, we slept like logs. Arinee did not. Leading to (DING DING DING) another saduu moment and yelling match. Looking back at this, we can do a Permutation and Combination of how everyone fought, sometimes directly, sometime via proxy. But, we did fight and then probably, felt bad. We are all grown ass adults, yet sometimes i think we are the same children just housed in bigger bodies.
So, onwards to heaven.
During my last trip, There was a quirky board outside a grenadiers unit "Jahaan Bola, Wahaan gola" and my new trip (Kargil to Dras) was spent trying to find that and maybe take a picture with it, sadly i could not find it, so i moved ahead with a slight disappointment in my heart. Anyways, my pet peeve throughout the entire trip was that i wanted a photo on all the passes that we would cross. Mission accomplished.
Climbing upto Zoji La, the most treacherous of all the passes and descending into Sonamarg I found myself thinking how folks are not able to do this drive even once in their lives and now i have done it twice. Its tough, the terrain, the weather, the food, the non-stop movement, the discipline needed to be safe. But, we did it.
"Breakfast at Sonamarg - Check; mad dash through Kashmir - Check; Theka super frustrated with our Innova's speed - Check; getting stuck in a kms long jam - Check (also horrid); Ghee laden Rajma Chawal - Check; Mild Deepika saduu moment - Check; Humaara Lakshya Mcdonalds hai - Check; Last day depression - Check, Check, Check.
It must end, for something to be this beautiful it must end. It must feel bitter sweet, bitter because it ended, sweet because it happened. Speed issues aside, the drive from Jammu to Delhi was the first time, during the entire trip, that i slept in the car (Thank god for the speed limiter on the Innova). Returning our vehicles in one piece and getting all our security deposit back (priceless).
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| MAKAROV |
Playlist of the trip:
1. Dil Chahta hai (Anti AMS mix) ft. Deepankar Bhardwaj
2. Grey waala shade - cause songs come back
3. Thunder - describes the drive
4. Mann kasturi re - cause i found the song
5. Pranee is saduu and she doesn't like songs
6. Kashmir - Led Zeppelin (My Shangri La beneath the summer moon, I will return again)
There is no summing up such a journey, there is only "Oye, Ladakh chalega?"
PS - It took me 4 months to write this, and now it feels super - underwhelming. There is only so much that words can give.
PPSS - There is a new group, "Mission Ladakh on Bike." This time with that purveyor of outrageous ideas - Aayush Jain.
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